Three elements needed to design a successful garment are...
Knowledge of consumer- The garments should be suitable for clients, age, image, occasion and life style.
Reasonable pricing- The constructed garments should be priced according to the making plus fabrication charges.
Aesthetics- The design colour and decoration of garment should enhance the face and figure of the person who is wearing it. Silhouette is the most dominant visual element of a garment. The shape of silhoutte usually compliments the shape of the body but exaggeration is often used to create a special effect or balance and emphasize a part of the body that is a current focus of fashion.
Typical garments used includes very active sportswear, excessive suits, bathing suits and dance costumes.
Stretch fabric makes the construction lines less important far fit, tight fit garments on the other hand emphasizes the body curves with very little chance to hide or camouflage the figure.
Dark colours like black, navy blue and brown will minimize the figure curves nicely and will make the figure look narrow and slim. Diagonal stripes add a particular angle will make the figure look slim. Bathing suits are styled with prints focusing an one area of figure to create a two dimensional syle impact. Dark coloured tights will make legs look slimmer.
2.Slim line silhouettee [pant]-
This silhouette hugs the figure with very little air space between the garment and the body. This is a classic tailored silhouette, which is made according to the bodice size and proportion. Pants are basically of two types.
- Snug fit jeans
- Lose straight hug trousers
Trousers should fit smoothly over the hips and should fall straight. Pants that fit at thigh and seat will emphasize the width of hips and shows the fullest part of figure an illusion of height is created by pants and a slim fitted blouse. Pants make the person look taller because the torso from waist down is covered with a single expanse of fabric.
Typical garments includes snugly fitted jeans or pants made from knit fabric with boot cut leg.
Freedom of movement is restricted unless stretch, woven or knitted fabrics are used a s bottom widths.
For such tight fit garment to give proper movement to body, darts, pleats, tucks and seams are given for woven fabric with contrast top if a narrow fit pants are worn the length of the legs will be emphasized.
Narrow cut pants when worn in dark colours make legs look longer and hips smaller because dark colours reside visually.
3.Slim line silhouette skirts-
Typical garments slim suits and dining fitted with darts and seams in woven fabrics is known as tailored silhouette it looks like men business suit.
The body movement is restricted by slim skirt unless slits are pleats are added to help the leg movement.
Vertical lines, slim lapels and small details will make person taller and slimmer. Slightly padded shoulder balance a wide hip line.
Similar uniform colours in jacket and skirt emphasize the height darker skirt shorten the figure but makes the
hip look smaller.
The length of the jacket should cover the crotch area if worn with pants or should be high on the hip so that the jacket hemline does not lead the eye to the wrinkled crotch area, on a short person long jacket reduces the length of the skirt and makes the person look more shorter on the other hand short jacket makes a short person look taller because of the visual contrast between shortness of bodice and longer expanse of skirt or pant. Vertical lines like stripes, placket , tucks, pleats anything in vertical direction elongates the big and make the person look slimmer.
4.Moderate silhouette modification pants-
Typical garments, garments included are softly pleated pants and trousers stylized with straight flared or slightly ballooned leg teamed with a soft shirt.
Due to the pleats and loosing the movement of body and shoulder is easier for which knits and woven fabrics are preferred.
Due to the pleats flexible fabric the seams and dart lines are less headed on the other hand case and gathers are used to fit the garments are used to camouflage and thus creates a wide and rectangular silhouette.
In soft dressing softwear and timer fabrics are used. collars and packets flaps are not given because the fabric is light weight. In place of this ease shirring( machine smocking), tucking details are used this type of dressing is very suitable for warm weather because of its loose fit and thinner fabric which allows the air to circulate near the body. Same style of dressing when used for pants are styled in light weight fabric wore the pleats and gathers are used. This is warn to balance a slender hip with a heavy bust figure with large hip. small bust and shoulders can balance this two elements with full sleeves shoulder pads or ruffle at the neck line teamed with soft pants.
5.Moderate silhouette modification skirt-
Typical garments includes dirndl's and full body silhouette. this is known as soft styling.
Due to the gathers body movement is easier but move bulk is surrounding the hips by giving the hip a wider look.
Gathering and ease is loosing is the primary styling element. Yokes are used as styling device to control the sheered area. This rectangular silhouette emphasizing a small waist line by contrasting two larger areas. Finally bodice secondly skirt with a bright belt or yoke.
Appropriate silhouette with larger print and small textures. The attention should be taken away from the problematic area by giving less fabric gathering on that spot because the gathered fabric focuses the attention on that specific area.
This soft styling includes full skirts, soft bows, ruffles, tucking and pleating details. Which is very typical for feminine styling it camouflages the figure. the uniform colour, dark color and neutral toes recedes by making the figure slim. The shift version of this silhouette is flattering for heavier shorter figure because tha waist line is not defined thus it does not divide the body into two parts. gathered fabric tends to lead eye to the source of gather. So gathers int he cuff of full sleeves will focus the attention on small attractive hands and in turn will also cover the bony elbows and thin person. Soft silhouette goes with fitted garments. A person soft hips can wear a soft dirndl skirt, contrasted with a belt to accentuate a slim waist, with a fitted top.
This features focuses the attention to slimmer part of the body and thus hide the size of hips by covering them with soft gathers of the skirt.
6.Extreme silhouette modification[shoulder wedge]-
Typical garments includes shoulder pads, shoulder ruffles, leg-o-mutton sleeves. these patterns provide wedge(square) shape to the body with fun in turn makes hip look smaller and body is broader.
Equlets on wide shoulder will accentuate tha broadness of the shoulder on the other hand lighter colour tops over darker colour bottoms increases the illusion of length. Broadness on the shoulder tends to make the hips look narrow and in turn makes the person look taller.
7.Extreme silhouette modification[hour glass]-
Typical garments consist of flared skirts teamed with tops that have full sleeves and a very fitted waist will create an illusion of hourglass. It is very feminine because width of hips and bust are sober increased with a small waist effectively direct the attention to the tight portion of the garment. An hourglass figure has full bust with wide hips and narrow waist line a contrasting belt with a flared skirt can be used to define a proper waist line and feminine blouse with full sleeves gives as hour glass silhouette to a narrow figure.
8.Extreme silhouette modification[figure volume]-
Typical garments consist layering of several bulky garments to give warmth to the body. A very small women will have to balance the size of her garments. She should wear slightly short skirts with all of one colour only and she should wear fabrics with small prints on it. Accessories like handbags and scarfs should also be smaller thant the usual size otherwise big accessories will again make the person look shorter. To appear taller a person should wear single colour boats and atocking and shoes should also match with the skirt jacket capes and stoles again adds volume to the figure.
9.Extreme silhouette modification[figure volume pants]-
Typical garments includes layering of several bulky tops over full pants which creates bulky effect which slim trousers for warmth. This kind of clothing's are generally adopted for active winter sports.
Wide leg pants and a version of Jodhpur pants and harem pants are typical of this silhouette by providing above mentioned the torso appears to be bulky and larger on the other hand large prints with bold colours are used to provide the bulky effect. Large tops with full pants provides casual look light weight fabric reveals the body silhouette and are popular for warm climate. This style emphasizes the width of hips and legs. and thus makes a person seems wear fuller pants, dark pants makes the person look taller even if she teaming it up with heavy and bulky tops.